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In France no meal is complete without it.

It’s fine to serve one perfect cheese – or two or three contrasting ones – on a simple cheese board made of wood or glass, slate or marble. I like a balance of aged hard cheeses and young ones, semi-hard cheese and blue, a soft Brie or Camembert, a goat and a ewe – and anything else that looks good at the cheesemonger’s. What you don’t finish is always delicious melted on toast or with potatoes, in a cheese sauce or grated into salad.

It keeps well, goes with almost everything and jazzes up a simple lunch or supper dish.